Each fishing tackles need to work as a coordinated unit

In fishing, the fishing reel, rod and line need to work as a coordinated unit, with one part not overshadowing the others by being too heavy or too light.  There needs to be balance within the components themselves and balance in the relationship of the components.

Fishing tackle unlimited also needs to be matched to the size and species being fished for. There’s an old expression, “Fish don’t break tackle, fishermen break tackle.” A lot of breakage can be avoided through proper fishing gear selection.

The Reel

As pointed out, enough available drag power, along with appropriate line capacity is the starting point for selecting a reel. Keep in mind, excessive line capacity adds weight to the reel since a bigger spool is needed to handle the longer line, and is not necessary.  Most fish will not run that far. That, combined with how far you can cast, will determine how much line you will need. Offshore or bottom fishing requires more line. For Inshore saltwater and most pond and lake situations 100 to 150 yards is often more than enough. Big game and surf casting calls for more capacity.

Fishing Reels are rated in sizes from 500 (ultra light), and up. 1,000, 2,000, 3,000 and all the way up to massive heavy service 10,000 size reels. These numbers are good for comparing reels between manufacturers. Although features such as the number of bearings and the weight of the reel based on the materials it is made from (graphite is lighter than metal, for example) may vary between makers in the same class size – the size and capacity will be similar. In other words, a 2,000 size reel from manufacturer A will be close in size to manufacturer B, but may have other, different features that do not affect its size.

It goes back to balance. A 1,000 size reel on an eleven-foot surf rod is just as out of balance as a 9,000 series reel on a seven foot, medium-light power rod. These are extremes and exaggerations, but you get the picture.  A 9,000 series reel on an eleven-foot surf casting rod may be perfectly fine and the 1,000 may balance the seven-footer perfectly.

The Line


The thicker the diameter, the less distance you will be able to cast. Braided line offers an advantage here. Ten-pound braided line has the approximate thickness of three-pound monofilament, yet retains the ten-pound breaking strength. It also allows you to wind more line on the spool.

Heavier lines are for bigger fish and bigger fish means bigger baits. Again – the right size tool for the job. A heavy weight 40 pound test monofilament line is not going to allow you to cast light weight lures effectively, and will more than likely result in a nonstop series of birds nests and tangles if you choose to do so. Heavy line needs a heavier projectile to pull it off the reel and overcome wind resistance. It’s a matching game of the size of the fish you are targeting, to the size of the bait, to the size of the line to cast and work the bait properly, (presentation) and the rod and reel needed to handle it.

You may wish to opt-up slightly in line strength for insurance. Don’t overdo it. Keep everything relative.  With heavier lines a two to five pound difference may be negligible while lighter lines may only allow you a one to two test pound difference.  Keep in mind thinner line and heavier lures cast farther. Again, see what the rod maker has listed on the side of your rod for the correct size line. There’s a reason for these limits. If you vary from them, do so at your own peril. The good fishing line, goture recommend you the http://www.goture.com/6-color-super-strength-durability-spider-wire-4-braided-pe-fishing-line-1000m.html.

The Rod (improtant)

Fishing rod, Goture recommend you the pruduct, http://www.goture.com/3-6-6-3m-red-wolf-superhard-carbon-fiber-rock-fishing-rod.html.

Select your rod for the line size (lbs. test) and lure size (ounces) for the size and species of fish targeted. Go back and read that sentence again. The relationship, the balance, has to be shared among all of the components. Using too heavy of a line could lead to snapped off rod guides or at the least, it will cut down on casting distance. Too light of a line on too heavy of a rod will lead to snapped lines. Using a heavier line beyond a given point, is not necessary if the drag on your reel (more about that later) is set properly. Many falsely believe that a heavier line will prevent bite offs, and break- offs by a big fish. If you are going after toothy game fish, or fishing a rocky area, use a heavy monofilament or fluorocarbon leader connected to a proper main line size that is matched to the rod, reel, and drag.  Or, use a wire leader for the more vicious, bigger fish.

Some anglers are dazzled by high drag settings available on some (usually more expensive) reels. Here’s the problem. The drag setting, the amount of force in pounds of pulling force, should be no more than one third of the line’s test strength. If you are spooled up with 30 pound test line, big enough to handle very large fish, the drag would be set at ten pounds of pulling force before the drag slips. Okay – knowing this, why would you want a reel that can develop 55 pounds of drag? In theory, that’s enough drag for 165 lbs. test line (55 is one third of 165). That’s enough force for massive deep water game fish. And, enough force to rip the guides out of a rod not built to handle it.
Another misnomer is that some fishermen think ten-pound test line is necessary to handle fish weighing up to ten pounds( or 30 pound line for a 30 pound fish, etc.). That’s far from true. Let’s take some of the aforementioned info and apply it here.

Scenario: you’ve spooled up with ten-pound test line, tied 30 inches of 30 pound test fluorocarbon line on as a leader because you are concerned about your thinner main line chaffing on rocks, carefully tied knots, (knots reduce line strength) and using a pull type fishing scale, properly set your reel’s drag to three pounds of drag before slipping occurs.

Your reel is well-maintained; the drag washers were recently serviced and capable of generating fourteen pounds of maximum drag.  It’s mounted on a quality seven-foot spinning rod. Medium-Heavy power, 10-20 Lbs. line, 1/2 – 1 1/4 ounce lures, the manufacturer has listed on the side of the rod. You’re casting one-ounce lures. Perfect.

You head out to fish. You hook what you almost find out later to be a fifteen-pound fish. How’s that possible? The line test strength is only ten pounds, the drag is set at three pounds, and okay, there’s a 30 pound leader… but that’s not the weak link.

The fish, after being hooked, starts to pull out line and your drag sings like crazy. Dzzzz, zzz, zzzz!  The fish beings to tire a little – remember he’s swimming and dragging around the equivalent of three pounds of weight – about 20 percent of its body weight. With each surge the drag resists against the pull. The drag is doing its job. The slippage is preventing the line from breaking (because that would take ten pounds of force to happen). After a good battle of you cranking in between the drag doing it’s job of slipping, you get the fish to the shore. You are delighted. Nice fish! you say to yourself. Bigger than you were hoping for, but within the limits of your gear.  Holding your rod with your right hand, you reach out and grasp the line with your left. Snap. The fish lands back in the water and swims off.

What happened? In your excitement you grabbed the ten pound test main line; not the much heavier leader. The fish weighing fifteen pounds, and no longer buoyed by the water, and with the reel’s drag no longer in play to allow slippage since you grabbed the line between the dead weight of the fish and the reel, exceeded the breaking strength of the line. Large fish are taken on line with breaking limits far below the fish’s weight all the time when the proper fishing practices are used.

The size of the lure weight listed on the rod manufacture has a lot to do with castability.  A medium power rod rated for lures between ? and ? ounce will not fare well trying to launch 1/8 ounce lures. Too heavy of a lure will likely snap the line. You not only lose your lure, but face potential danger as the hooks go hurtling through the air at you or an innocent bystander.

A balanced fishing rod and reel combo keeps your hands relaxed allowing you more sensitivity to detect tiny changes in line tension (bites and nibbles).  A balanced setup reduces fatigue in your hand, wrist and forearm since your muscles won’t have to make micro-adjustments while casting.

Let’s look at rod balance.  Whether you’re using a baitcaster or spinning rod, it’s easy to check its balance. With your reel loaded on the rod and spooled with line, on a bait caster put your index finger under the rod just in front of the reel. This will create a balance point for the rod to rest on. If it’s well balanced, there will be equal weight distribution on either side of your finger.  If the tip tilts down, the rod is too heavy for the reel. If the handle tips downward, select a lighter weight reel for optimum balance.

For a spinning rod, place your finger at the point where the reel is seated on the rod. The same rules of balance apply to the spinning rod.

Think about what technique you’ll be using most often before you get too concerned about rod balance. A balanced rig comes into play more with still-presentation lures (baits typically fished with the rod tip at the 10 o’clock position)– worms, jigs, and the like or fishing lightweight lures  with  the rod tip elevated need correct balance. It’s less of an issue with lures that are fished fast or retrieved with special action.

The key is to find a combination that doesn’t quickly tip in one direction or the other when you’re balancing it on your finger…or fishing.  Some rod – reel combinations may be slightly out of balance. Depending on your techniques, it may not matter as much. Moving-bait presentations don’t need to be (as) balanced because they are fished holding the tip down.

Many tackle set-ups do not have perfect balance. If you already have a rod and reel and they’re out of balance, all is not lost. If you are tip end heavy, you can put a weighted cap on the rod handle’s butt end. Ask your local hardware store about crutch butt caps (a rubber stopper- like non-slip piece that goes on the end of a walking cane). They may have one in the size you need. That may be all it takes. If a little more weight is needed, place some washers under the cap to micro-tune the balance. Don’t epoxy the cap on; use something like silicone glue so you can change the cap if you change reels.  There are manufactures that sell butt-cap kits. If the rod is too tail heavy, you may want to opt for a lighter reel.

Although, a perfectly balanced rod improves sensitivity and reduces arm fatigue during long casting sessions, you can cast heavier baits farther with a bottom- end heavy rod.  You could consider having two set-ups for different conditions. One balanced to reduce fatigue and increase rod sensitivity, the other for heavier, fast-moving baits.

There are exceptions to every rule. Some angler using frog baits in heavy cover – lily pads, grass and the like, will use a very heavy braided line (50 – 60 lb.) solely for the purpose of cutting through the vegetation and horsing a fish out. Again, an exception to another rule is tightening the drag down in excess of the recommended 30% of line strength to pull a fish through the cover. Since frog lures typically weigh less than a half ounce and the targeted fish’s weights are not likely to exceed the load capacity of the line or rod; there is not typically a danger of snapping either with this technique.

Fishing should be about having fun and relaxing. Keeping things in balance will go a long way in starting, and ending, every fishing adventure the right way. Selecting the right tackle the first time will save you money.

Fishing Knots You Need To Know

First of all knots, Goture recommend on Hook Line Type,
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As we known, fishing knots have been developed and tested thoroughly to assure tying ease and strength. The fising knots allow you to properly tie your line to your hook, lure and othre tackle. Each knot has a specific purpose.  Before you learn any new knot, consider the following:

1. The right knot is important. You want the strongest knot possible so that you don't lose the fish. A simple overhand knot weakens line by about 50 percent.
2. Practice tying knots.  Take a length of fishing line, a hook with the point cut off or buried into
a cork, and practice.  Practice until you can tie each knot correctly.
3. Wet knots with saliva as you pull them tight.  This prevents damage to the line and allows the
knot to pull tight.
4. Pull knots tight to prevent slippage.
5. Trim knots closely with a nail clipper.  A good knot, pulled tight, will not come loose.
Close trimming prevents the knot from catching snags or weeds.  Do not burn the tag end – heat damages the line and knot.
6.Knots have their own terminology.  The "tag end" (sometimes called the "working end") is the
end of the line used to tie the knot.  The "standing end" is that part of the line coming from your fishing reel.
7. Leave a foot or more of the "tag end" of line for tying knots so that you can tie them properly
8. Pull up all ends when tightening the knot.  With some knots this will be only the standing end
and tag end; with other knots it might be three or four ends.
9. Knots are rarely as strong as the line.  Knot strength is often expressed in percent, such as the
percentage of the strength of the line at which the knot (weaker than the line) will break.
As an example, a knot testing 90 percent will break at nine pounds of tension in a line testing ten-pounds.

Knots to tie a fishing line to a hook or lure are the basic and used in all fising. The following is several of typesof knots.

Improved clinch knot
This is a variation of an older clinch knot.  The variation (a final tuck of the line back through a loop) makes this knot test 95 percent of the line strength. The secret of this knot is to make five turns of the tag end of the line around the standing end part before running the tag end back through the formed loop. Use for lines up to 20 pound test.

 
Palomar knot
This knot, over 95 percent in strength, takes more line to tie because it is doubled first. It is good for lines up to and over 20 pound test. Because it is run doubled through the lure or hook eye, knotted and then looped over the hook or lure, it may tangle easier. It is a favorite knot of many anglers.

 
Non-slip loop knot
This knot creates a fixed loop so that a hook can freely move.  It is best with larger lines where a tight knot such as the Improved Clinch can impede the hook/bait orlure movement. It is similar to tying the Improved Clinch Knot.

 
Blood knot
This knot requires five turns of line, with each tag end around the overlapped standing end of line.  This is easy to do by making one series of turns and tucking the tag end between the two lines and then repeating with the second line.  It is a good knot if the lines are not too dissimilar in diameters. It’s good for tying 15 pound test line to 20 pound test line; not good for tying 15 pound test line to 50 pound test line.

 
Surgeon's knot
This makes it easy to join two lines, but one line must be short, since you have to bring the one end through the formed overhand loop. As with other lines, use a lot of overlapping line so that you can pull on all four ends to properly pull tight.  Work with both lines together as you tie this, and make sure that both loops are the same size to assure a strong knot.

 
Surgeon's loop
This knot is similar to the Surgeon’s Knot for joining lines.  To make this,fold over the tag end of line and form the knot using both strands to make a double overhand knot. Pull up carefully on both the two ends and the loop.

 
Figure-eight loop
This loop knot is also easy to tie.  Fold over the tag end of line (leave lots of line for this) and then form a figure-eight bend with the two lines, ending by going through the first loop. As with the Surgeon’s Loop, pull tight on the loop and both tag ends.

Special knots

Arbor knot
You need to attach the line to your fishing reel, but this knot does not need to be strong. Run the line around the spool hub (arbor) and make an overhand knot around the standing line. Clip and pull tight.

 
In-line dropper
This allows you to make a loop in the middle of your line to attrch a hook or othre rig. Fold the line back over itself to make loop, and then twist the two overlapping line sections four or five times. Pull the loop through this center twist. Pull tight.

How to beat the heat while fishing

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For fishmen, dealing with the sun and hot temperatures is part of summer fishing. Like most things outdoors, one's comfort and safety in hot weather are directly related to planning and preparedness. It's important to take the time to get organized when heading out into hot weather to ensure you don't get dehydrated, sunburnt or succumb to heat stroke. Here are some tips to keep you cool during hot days on the water.

1.Protect Your Head
Keeping your head protected is important during hot, sunny conditions. Without a hat you're tempting fate and a case of sunstroke. A wide brim hat will protect your face, ears and neck from the sun's rays. Other options include ball caps, buffs and bandanas. These don't provide as much protection, but are better than nothing.

2.Protect Your Eyes With Sunglasses
Most sunglasses sold today will protect your eyes from harmful UV rays. For anglers, polarized lenses will cut down on the sun's glare on the water, letting you spot fish and underwater structure. Wrap-around options are extremely popular as they hug the face and do an excellent job blocking out the sun. When buying your shades, pick up a floating case and a lanyard to protect your investment from unwanted overboard losses.

3.Staying Hydrated
Perspiration is one way your body regulates its temperature. In hot and humid conditions, you need to frequently replenish liquids lost to sweat so you remain hydrated. If you don't take in enough fluids, you run the risk of getting sick with sunstroke.

Staying hydrated is simple: drink a lot of fluids and drink often. It's best to drink plenty of water and not just take a few sips now and then. I usually guzzle back 10 to 20 ounces about every 30 to 45 minutes (sometimes more) when fishing in hot conditions. I make it a habit to pack extra water so there's plenty for me and extra in case my fishing partner didn't bring enough.

Drinking before you feel thirsty is another rule of thumb to stay hydrated. When your body sends out a signal for thirst, you're already dehydrated. If you feel thirsty, drink plenty of water to replenish your fluid levels.

When it comes to drinks, it's important to stay away from caffeinated and alcoholic beverages. These will cause you to lose fluids as both are diuretics and will cause you to urinate frequently. If enjoying these kind of drinks make sure you have a few extra glasses of water to compensate for lost liquids. Also, note that when hydrated urine will be clear. When it's a dark yellow, you're dehydrated and need to drink lots of water.

Although water is my mainstay drink for hot weather, I also like to have a few sport drinks on hand for variety. These help to replenish salts, sugars and other minerals lost from excessive perspiration. You can save yourself money by buying the drink powder in bulk and mixing your own in waterbottles. Juices are also good to have on hand.

4. Lather on the Sunscreen — Often
Using sunscreen on a regular basis is critical to protecting your skin from UV rays. Not using sunscreen increases your chances of getting skin cancer or may result in other skin damage, like sunburns. Keep in mind that the sun's rays can reflect off the water's surface and cloudy conditions still call for sunscreen.
Adults should use a sunscreen with a minimum SPF 15 rating and children should use sunscreen with at least a 30 SPF rating. Ensure you apply sunscreen liberally at about 20 minutes before you're in the sun for maximum protection. Consider using sport sunscreens when fishing. These products are fairly waterproof and sweat proof, resulting in better protection. Sunscreen should also be reapplied as necessary. This is especially true if you've gotten wet or have been sweating a lot.

Also, carry a stick of lip balm with a SPF 15 rating and use it often. You may also want to consider a sun block stick, to cover your ears and nose.

5. Get the Right Clothing
Protecting your skin with proper clothing is important. Some sportswear fabric offers sun protection, with 15 and 30 SPF ratings being common. Often these clothes feature moisture-wicking and quick-drying features that will also help you keep cool. Look for vented cape backs in shirts for maximum ventilation.
Although shorts and short sleeve shirts are common in hot conditions, it's important to have long sleeve shirts and pants on hand. I use regularly wear convertible pants when fishing. If I feel my legs have got too much sun, I'll zip the pant legs back on for 30 minutes or so to give my skin a rest from the sun's rays. I do the same trick with a light-weight long-sleeve shirt to protect my arms.

If you're standing and fishing all day in sandals, it won't take long for your toes to get burnt if you're not prepared. Regularly apply a lot of sunscreen to your feet and don't be shy putting on some ultra-light socks or switching to shoes if your feet get too hot. Also don't neglect your hands. If you're landing and releasing fish all day, sunscreen can quickly wash off, so reapply often. Also consider sun gloves that are specifically designed to protect hands from UV rays, but allow you to do all things fishing related, like tie knots, cast and reel, and so on.

6. Take Cover
In extreme conditions, it's sometimes best to stay out of the sun entirely. Consider dividing up your outings with a mid-day break. The sun's rays are often the strongest between 10 a.m.-2 p.m., a perfect time for a shore lunch or a siesta in the shade. Of course, if you're boat has a top this is a great feature to stay in the shade. Purchasing a bimini top is an easy way to ensure you've got some sun protection on your fishing rig.

These are just a few suggestions on how to handle the heat this fishing season. The sun shouldn't stop you from enjoying great angling this season, but be wary of its rays and the affects of hot weather. Stay hydrated and protected from harmful UV rays, and you'll be ready for whatever the fish dish out.

Few tips for your first fishing adventures

First to fishing adventures are often overwhelmed by the choice of fishing tackle as they sift through catalogs, browse online, or gaze at the offerings in their local bait and tackle shop. There are some essentials to take along on every fishing outing and other items that will help make the trip more enjoyable…and perhaps more successful. The key in the beginning is; keep it simple.

Ask an experienced fisherman what the best bait or lures are to bring along. This will cut down on a lot of extras that you don’t need to carry.
Dress comfortably for the weather. If you are too cold or too hot, it takes some of the fun out of the enjoyment of fishing.

The first things to pack are safety and common sense. Accidents do happen, and being prepared makes the difference.

If you are fishing from a kayak, canoe, or a small boat –fish with a buddy. Even if you are fishing from a dock, bridge, or beach, tell someone where you are going to fish and an approximate time you will be back.

Here’s a list of what to bring along. Some items will vary depending on what kind of fish (species) and size of fish you are after.

Fishing Hooks  — for the type of fish you are targeting
Extra fishing line — tangles and break-offs do happen. Don’t lose a whole day to a lost line.
Bobbers  or floaters if you are fishing baits with that method
Snaps and swivels to keep fishing line from twisting
Sinkers or weights
Leaders (or leader line)
Needle nose pliers for hook removal. Hook removal tools are usually light weight and effective, but it’s good to also have pliers along in case you hook yourself
Stringer —  to hold the fish you catch
Ruler and scale – if you area has size limits, these are necessary. Small pocket tape measures work fine.
Sharp knife – a multi-tool knife is good, but may not be the best bet for cutting bait. Bring a bait knife and leave the fillet knife at home unless you plan to clean your catch where you fish.
A small flashlight if you are out before dawn or after dusk
First-aid kit — simple stuff, like band aids, insect bite relief, and a few aspirin
Insect repellent
Sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat

Use this checklist before you leave. There’s nothing worse than being in the middle of the lake and realizing you left some of your gear at home.

Drag instruction for fishing reels

About Drag
The drag system on reels allows line to come off the spool while fighting a fish. This will prevent the line from breaking if the fish makes a strong run. The drag lets the spool turn and release line until the fish slows down, without giving the fish slack line that might help it get off the hook. To work well, a drag must allow line to come off the spool smoothly and consistently while the reel is in gear.

Bait-Casting Reel Drag:
Bait-casting reels usually have a star drag that is controlled by a star-shaped fitting under the handle. It’s made up of different kinds of washers inside the reel that rub against each other as the spool turns while the reel is in gear. They can be very large and the drag system on bait-casting reels is usually smooth and consistent.
You can also control the drag on a bait-casting reel by using your thumb against the spool and putting the reel into free spool. Pressure of your thumb on the spool acts as the drag and controls the amount of pull that’s needed to take line.

Spinning Reel Drag:
Spinning reels come with either front or rear drag systems that are made up of alternating metal and fiber or plastic washers that work against each other. Front-drag reels have bigger washers and are smoother but are harder to adjust during the fight. Rear-drag reels are easy to adjust but have smaller washers, meaning they are not as smooth. Anglers need to adjust the drag when fighting a strong fish because as line comes off the spool the drag gets tighter as the amount of line on the spool gets smaller.

Spincast Reels Drag:
Spin-casting reels usually have a poor drag system because their construction makes it difficult to design a drag system that works well. The spool must turn inside the reel to allow line to come out, and the angle the line makes going around the edge of the spool and out the hole in the cover fights against a smooth drag. The drag usually consists of a small tab that works against notches in the side of the reel. The spool moves in jerks between notches and is not consistent.

How to Protect Your Fly Fishing Rod

Do you konw how to protect your fly fishing rod? The fly fishing rods need to be protected when not in use to ensure their long life and usefulness in the river. Some consumer spend in excess of thousands of dollars on a quality fly rod, while other spend just a few hundred. In eithre case, does it not make sense to protect your investment with a simple rod case or tube?

In most instances rod cases are generally forgotten about by the average fly angler until a serious need arises for one like an out of town trip. Worse yet, these fishing cases due to their long size and bulkiness get packed away in basements making them difficult to find when you need them. As a result, desperate anglers try and rig existing luggage to accommodate these rods, only to find that their gear arrived cracked, bend or broken at their intended destination.

In general rod cases and tubes come in a few different designs and styles. The first type is your basic long, hard-cased rod tube. These types of tubes are best suited for transporting your rod long distances such as on a plane or the back of a truck. The second type of rod case is a tube-cover with a tough fabric that forms a reel cover. These cases allow a broken-down rod to be slipped into the case and secured without the removal of the fly reel. The last type of rod case is the rod sock. Like the rod tube this type of case requires the reel to be removed before storing the rod. Unlike the other two cases this type of protective covering really does not do much in the way of protecting your rod. It simply covers the rod and keeps it dirt and debris free.

Standard Rod Tubes
The rod tube is a basic protective case for your fly rod that is generally intended for everyday use to and from the river. These cases have been designed specifically for long terms storage purposes like the long winter or for travel abroad.

These cases are specifically good for packing away rods for winter or for periods when do not think you will be able to get out on the water for a while. Giving your rod a quick cleaning and packing it away softly will have rod coming out of the tube looking like new in the spring.

Having a fly rod travel with you to a destination is never a safe venture especially when going by airplane. Conveyer belts, luggage slides and rough air conditions can severely damage your precious equipment so having a protective case to combat the rigors is a good idea. Rod tubes for travel should have padding at the tops and bottom and space eaters involved so that rods do not bang around inside the tube.

Another good idea is to have a locking mechanism attached to the top of the tube you are interested in so that you can place a pad-lock or similar device to keep unwanted intruders out. If you are looking into purchasing a rod tube then a good idea is to find one that is either made out of heavy duty PVC type plastic or, better yet, lightweight aluminum or some type of metal composite. These cases need to able to take serious abuse so choosing a tube that skimps on the materials used for the cases construction will only find you back in the stores in a few years searching for another. Additional features are listed below that make will set a quality rod tube apart from all others.   Rod Tube Features
Hard PVC or metal shell

Soft and padded internal compartment plus caps
Screw on cap with D rings for locking
Identification Tag
Adjustable shoulder strap and web handle

Rod/Reel Cases
Rod and reel combo cases are a great idea for the fly angler who likes to fish a few different times in a week or venture out to multiple stretches of river in one afternoon. These cases are designed in such a way that anglers can simply break down their rods at the ferrules and slide the ferrule ends down the rod tube to stow the rod away safely. This simplistic design saves anglers a tremendous amount of time by not having to attach reels and flies repeatedly.  Another key feature of these combo cases is that since they are meant to have rods broken down in half, they are smaller in length than your traditional rod tube.

This small size makes them great for small trips and tight spaces in the back of your car. If you are looking to purchase a rod, fly fishing reel, and case combo try and buy a case that has more than one rod well as reel holder. It is a great idea to have multiple rods rigged and waiting to go just see what the conditions are and choose the best set-up. For the best possible rod and reel combo case look for one that incorporates as many of the features listed below as possible.

Rod and Reel Combinations
Rugged 450 denier fabric cover over hard PVC shell
Soft and padded reel case section
Two zipper side pockets for additional storage of reels, spools, fly boxes
One mesh panel pocket
Adjustable shoulder strap and web handle
2 D-rings for attachment to back pack
Multiple wells for more than one rod storage
Heavy-duty metal zippers

Rod Socks
Rod socks are almost exactly what the name implies, just a sheath of fabric to place your fly rod into. The rod sock is normally used in conjunction with rod tubes to further protect rods from damage. A quality rod sock will have multiple compartments so that the angler can store each fly rod section by itself.
Placing all the rod pieces together in one large compartment would allow for the rod components to rub together either scratching or blemishing the rods finish. Additionally rod sock should incorporate some sort of a tie down system so that the rod sections in the different compartments will stay in place. These cases are great if used in conjunction with one of the other two varies of cases but should not be used alone as protection for you fly rod. The sock is simply to keep your precious rod dirt, dust and scratch free, nothing more.
Buying a quality fly rod is one of the biggest investments any angler will have in fly fishing. If you can justify spending your hard earned dollars on the rod that you have always wanted, take the time to protect it properly for years to come with a quality rod case.

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