Steps of using a fish finder

If you know how to use a fish finder, you will be able to locate more fish than you know how to catch. The following post aims to help you to know steps of using a fish finder so that you can be your way to having more fun fishing.

1. Read the manual
May be the user manual have no technical information that you are interested in reading, but it is important to read the manual in order to familiarize yourself with the unit you purchased.


2. Fish finder mount
The manual will be able to walk you through the steps to properly mount your model.

3. Turn on your fish finder
When you turn on the fish finder, you will be able to switch to manual mode and customize the settings to the fishing conditions. To beginm leave the fish finder on automatic and take a five minute spin around the lake, bay or ocean that you fish in.

4. Now start adjusting one feature at a time and become familiar with that feature.
One of the key settings to play around with is the Sensitivity setting. When you adjust the unit’s sensitivity you are adjusting the power of the fish finder. The simple rule of thumb is, the lower the power (sensitivity) the lower the quality of the view on the display. Start by setting the sensitivity to between 75 and 100%. Trial and error will be the best way to determine the optimal setting for your model.

5. The next setting to visit in manual mode, is the Fish ID setting.
Once you have a feel for your unit, turn off the Fish ID feature and try to get used to reading the fish arches that you will see naturally on the screen. The fish icons displayed by the Fish ID are useful for true beginners, but once you begin to familiarize yourself with the display it is better to learn how to read the natural fish arches. The fish arches will give you a more accurate view of what is under water.

6. Another feature, Auto Depth, is best used at its pre-programmed setting as you begin using your fish finder.
Using the pre-programmed setting will tell the unit to automatically track the bottom and is best used when you are new to using sonar. As you become more of an expert, you can manually set the upper and lower limits of the display window. The smaller the display window you set the better the resolution will be. In general, expert anglers eliminate the top few feet of water and stop the scan about ten feet below the true bottom. The display window size will of course vary depending on how deep the water is and what type of fish you are looking to catch. Experiment with the display window size until you are comfortable with both the amount of water you can view and the picture resolution.

7. As you are becoming more and more familiar with your fish finder, you will notice a horizontal line across the screen.
This line is the Depth Cursor and can be moved up or down on the display. When you find some fish, adjust the depth cursor to cut through the fish arches and the unit will tell you exactly how deep those fish are. Now you know exactly how deep to drop your bait.

8. One last feature to touch on in this article is the suppressor setting.
This setting tells the unit how much “back ground” noise to filter out. Eliminating the back ground noise may be helpful, but if your transducer is mounted properly it is generally unnecessary. If you find you have to use the suppressor to locate fish, then you should check that your transducer is mounted correctly. In general you want to have the suppressor off as having the suppressor setting too high can block the sonar signal entirely and you won’t find fish that way!

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Which fish species hears the best

Fish have two sensors for detectiong sound: the inner ear and the lateral line. These two systems work independently of each other to hear and feel particle motion and pressure changes. Ther systems are able to correlate and send signals to vatious parts of the brain to initiate a reaction or function.


Catfish receive top rating for both lateral-line detection and hearing strength, according to a survey of prominent fish physiologists and fisheries biologists. The sauger is also given an excellent rating for its lateral line, while walleye, pike, and largemouth bass receive a good grade. Yellow perch, bluegill, and crappie rank only fair. In terms of hearing, walleye, sauger, pike, and largemouth come in at good, while yellow perch, bluegill, and crappie score the lowest grade once again.

All fishing lures produce sound. Whether it's a rattling worm weight that sends out high-pitched frequencies or a wobbling crankbait that produces detectable vibrations throughout the water column, most sounds will be picked up by the lateral line or inner ear.

Research suggests, for example, that walleye hear underwater sound waves in the range of 100 to 2,000 hertz (cycles per second.) It's thought that most rattling lures or noisy crankbaits fall into this range and will be heard or felt. As a comparison, largemouth bass hear frequencies in the range of 100 to 600 hertz.

Fish for the Right Sounds

Use this information to your advantage. For those who chase panfish, put more emphasis on fishing lure color, action, and scent, as sound takes a back seat with these species. For fish that score an excellent or good rating, experimenting with sound, including loudness, pitch, or water commotion, will help lure them.

With crankbaits, for example, nuances within the style or shape, bill size, body material, and whether it's a silent or rattle-type lure will all affect noise and vibration characteristics. One style of crankbait might attract a fish and cause it to strike, while another might startle it and send it fleeing. A similar lure producing a slightly different sound might be completely ignored.

Studies also show that the hungrier a fish is, the more likely it will respond to sound. But, if that same fish is not hungry, sound can become a deterrent.

Experiment is Key

Once you've located fish, the key to catching them is to use a lure that triggers an aggressive response and run it at the speed that produces the most attractive vibration. This might mean rummaging through the tackle box and chucking many types of baits until the best one is found. For example, a switch from a Colorado-blade spinnerbait to a willowleaf might be just the right sound largemouths are looking for that particular day. The same can be said for a tight-wobbling crankbait, as opposed to a wide-swimming style, when chasing muskie or pike. Getting their attention, though, is only part of the equation. If your offering doesn't look or smell appealing, fish might still turn up their noses at it.

Each fishing tackles need to work as a coordinated unit

In fishing, the fishing reel, rod and line need to work as a coordinated unit, with one part not overshadowing the others by being too heavy or too light.  There needs to be balance within the components themselves and balance in the relationship of the components.

Fishing tackle unlimited also needs to be matched to the size and species being fished for. There’s an old expression, “Fish don’t break tackle, fishermen break tackle.” A lot of breakage can be avoided through proper fishing gear selection.

The Reel

As pointed out, enough available drag power, along with appropriate line capacity is the starting point for selecting a reel. Keep in mind, excessive line capacity adds weight to the reel since a bigger spool is needed to handle the longer line, and is not necessary.  Most fish will not run that far. That, combined with how far you can cast, will determine how much line you will need. Offshore or bottom fishing requires more line. For Inshore saltwater and most pond and lake situations 100 to 150 yards is often more than enough. Big game and surf casting calls for more capacity.

Fishing Reels are rated in sizes from 500 (ultra light), and up. 1,000, 2,000, 3,000 and all the way up to massive heavy service 10,000 size reels. These numbers are good for comparing reels between manufacturers. Although features such as the number of bearings and the weight of the reel based on the materials it is made from (graphite is lighter than metal, for example) may vary between makers in the same class size – the size and capacity will be similar. In other words, a 2,000 size reel from manufacturer A will be close in size to manufacturer B, but may have other, different features that do not affect its size.

It goes back to balance. A 1,000 size reel on an eleven-foot surf rod is just as out of balance as a 9,000 series reel on a seven foot, medium-light power rod. These are extremes and exaggerations, but you get the picture.  A 9,000 series reel on an eleven-foot surf casting rod may be perfectly fine and the 1,000 may balance the seven-footer perfectly.

The Line


The thicker the diameter, the less distance you will be able to cast. Braided line offers an advantage here. Ten-pound braided line has the approximate thickness of three-pound monofilament, yet retains the ten-pound breaking strength. It also allows you to wind more line on the spool.

Heavier lines are for bigger fish and bigger fish means bigger baits. Again – the right size tool for the job. A heavy weight 40 pound test monofilament line is not going to allow you to cast light weight lures effectively, and will more than likely result in a nonstop series of birds nests and tangles if you choose to do so. Heavy line needs a heavier projectile to pull it off the reel and overcome wind resistance. It’s a matching game of the size of the fish you are targeting, to the size of the bait, to the size of the line to cast and work the bait properly, (presentation) and the rod and reel needed to handle it.

You may wish to opt-up slightly in line strength for insurance. Don’t overdo it. Keep everything relative.  With heavier lines a two to five pound difference may be negligible while lighter lines may only allow you a one to two test pound difference.  Keep in mind thinner line and heavier lures cast farther. Again, see what the rod maker has listed on the side of your rod for the correct size line. There’s a reason for these limits. If you vary from them, do so at your own peril. The good fishing line, goture recommend you the http://www.goture.com/6-color-super-strength-durability-spider-wire-4-braided-pe-fishing-line-1000m.html.

The Rod (improtant)

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Select your rod for the line size (lbs. test) and lure size (ounces) for the size and species of fish targeted. Go back and read that sentence again. The relationship, the balance, has to be shared among all of the components. Using too heavy of a line could lead to snapped off rod guides or at the least, it will cut down on casting distance. Too light of a line on too heavy of a rod will lead to snapped lines. Using a heavier line beyond a given point, is not necessary if the drag on your reel (more about that later) is set properly. Many falsely believe that a heavier line will prevent bite offs, and break- offs by a big fish. If you are going after toothy game fish, or fishing a rocky area, use a heavy monofilament or fluorocarbon leader connected to a proper main line size that is matched to the rod, reel, and drag.  Or, use a wire leader for the more vicious, bigger fish.

Some anglers are dazzled by high drag settings available on some (usually more expensive) reels. Here’s the problem. The drag setting, the amount of force in pounds of pulling force, should be no more than one third of the line’s test strength. If you are spooled up with 30 pound test line, big enough to handle very large fish, the drag would be set at ten pounds of pulling force before the drag slips. Okay – knowing this, why would you want a reel that can develop 55 pounds of drag? In theory, that’s enough drag for 165 lbs. test line (55 is one third of 165). That’s enough force for massive deep water game fish. And, enough force to rip the guides out of a rod not built to handle it.
Another misnomer is that some fishermen think ten-pound test line is necessary to handle fish weighing up to ten pounds( or 30 pound line for a 30 pound fish, etc.). That’s far from true. Let’s take some of the aforementioned info and apply it here.

Scenario: you’ve spooled up with ten-pound test line, tied 30 inches of 30 pound test fluorocarbon line on as a leader because you are concerned about your thinner main line chaffing on rocks, carefully tied knots, (knots reduce line strength) and using a pull type fishing scale, properly set your reel’s drag to three pounds of drag before slipping occurs.

Your reel is well-maintained; the drag washers were recently serviced and capable of generating fourteen pounds of maximum drag.  It’s mounted on a quality seven-foot spinning rod. Medium-Heavy power, 10-20 Lbs. line, 1/2 – 1 1/4 ounce lures, the manufacturer has listed on the side of the rod. You’re casting one-ounce lures. Perfect.

You head out to fish. You hook what you almost find out later to be a fifteen-pound fish. How’s that possible? The line test strength is only ten pounds, the drag is set at three pounds, and okay, there’s a 30 pound leader… but that’s not the weak link.

The fish, after being hooked, starts to pull out line and your drag sings like crazy. Dzzzz, zzz, zzzz!  The fish beings to tire a little – remember he’s swimming and dragging around the equivalent of three pounds of weight – about 20 percent of its body weight. With each surge the drag resists against the pull. The drag is doing its job. The slippage is preventing the line from breaking (because that would take ten pounds of force to happen). After a good battle of you cranking in between the drag doing it’s job of slipping, you get the fish to the shore. You are delighted. Nice fish! you say to yourself. Bigger than you were hoping for, but within the limits of your gear.  Holding your rod with your right hand, you reach out and grasp the line with your left. Snap. The fish lands back in the water and swims off.

What happened? In your excitement you grabbed the ten pound test main line; not the much heavier leader. The fish weighing fifteen pounds, and no longer buoyed by the water, and with the reel’s drag no longer in play to allow slippage since you grabbed the line between the dead weight of the fish and the reel, exceeded the breaking strength of the line. Large fish are taken on line with breaking limits far below the fish’s weight all the time when the proper fishing practices are used.

The size of the lure weight listed on the rod manufacture has a lot to do with castability.  A medium power rod rated for lures between ? and ? ounce will not fare well trying to launch 1/8 ounce lures. Too heavy of a lure will likely snap the line. You not only lose your lure, but face potential danger as the hooks go hurtling through the air at you or an innocent bystander.

A balanced fishing rod and reel combo keeps your hands relaxed allowing you more sensitivity to detect tiny changes in line tension (bites and nibbles).  A balanced setup reduces fatigue in your hand, wrist and forearm since your muscles won’t have to make micro-adjustments while casting.

Let’s look at rod balance.  Whether you’re using a baitcaster or spinning rod, it’s easy to check its balance. With your reel loaded on the rod and spooled with line, on a bait caster put your index finger under the rod just in front of the reel. This will create a balance point for the rod to rest on. If it’s well balanced, there will be equal weight distribution on either side of your finger.  If the tip tilts down, the rod is too heavy for the reel. If the handle tips downward, select a lighter weight reel for optimum balance.

For a spinning rod, place your finger at the point where the reel is seated on the rod. The same rules of balance apply to the spinning rod.

Think about what technique you’ll be using most often before you get too concerned about rod balance. A balanced rig comes into play more with still-presentation lures (baits typically fished with the rod tip at the 10 o’clock position)– worms, jigs, and the like or fishing lightweight lures  with  the rod tip elevated need correct balance. It’s less of an issue with lures that are fished fast or retrieved with special action.

The key is to find a combination that doesn’t quickly tip in one direction or the other when you’re balancing it on your finger…or fishing.  Some rod – reel combinations may be slightly out of balance. Depending on your techniques, it may not matter as much. Moving-bait presentations don’t need to be (as) balanced because they are fished holding the tip down.

Many tackle set-ups do not have perfect balance. If you already have a rod and reel and they’re out of balance, all is not lost. If you are tip end heavy, you can put a weighted cap on the rod handle’s butt end. Ask your local hardware store about crutch butt caps (a rubber stopper- like non-slip piece that goes on the end of a walking cane). They may have one in the size you need. That may be all it takes. If a little more weight is needed, place some washers under the cap to micro-tune the balance. Don’t epoxy the cap on; use something like silicone glue so you can change the cap if you change reels.  There are manufactures that sell butt-cap kits. If the rod is too tail heavy, you may want to opt for a lighter reel.

Although, a perfectly balanced rod improves sensitivity and reduces arm fatigue during long casting sessions, you can cast heavier baits farther with a bottom- end heavy rod.  You could consider having two set-ups for different conditions. One balanced to reduce fatigue and increase rod sensitivity, the other for heavier, fast-moving baits.

There are exceptions to every rule. Some angler using frog baits in heavy cover – lily pads, grass and the like, will use a very heavy braided line (50 – 60 lb.) solely for the purpose of cutting through the vegetation and horsing a fish out. Again, an exception to another rule is tightening the drag down in excess of the recommended 30% of line strength to pull a fish through the cover. Since frog lures typically weigh less than a half ounce and the targeted fish’s weights are not likely to exceed the load capacity of the line or rod; there is not typically a danger of snapping either with this technique.

Fishing should be about having fun and relaxing. Keeping things in balance will go a long way in starting, and ending, every fishing adventure the right way. Selecting the right tackle the first time will save you money.

Fishing Knots You Need To Know

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As we known, fishing knots have been developed and tested thoroughly to assure tying ease and strength. The fising knots allow you to properly tie your line to your hook, lure and othre tackle. Each knot has a specific purpose.  Before you learn any new knot, consider the following:

1. The right knot is important. You want the strongest knot possible so that you don't lose the fish. A simple overhand knot weakens line by about 50 percent.
2. Practice tying knots.  Take a length of fishing line, a hook with the point cut off or buried into
a cork, and practice.  Practice until you can tie each knot correctly.
3. Wet knots with saliva as you pull them tight.  This prevents damage to the line and allows the
knot to pull tight.
4. Pull knots tight to prevent slippage.
5. Trim knots closely with a nail clipper.  A good knot, pulled tight, will not come loose.
Close trimming prevents the knot from catching snags or weeds.  Do not burn the tag end – heat damages the line and knot.
6.Knots have their own terminology.  The "tag end" (sometimes called the "working end") is the
end of the line used to tie the knot.  The "standing end" is that part of the line coming from your fishing reel.
7. Leave a foot or more of the "tag end" of line for tying knots so that you can tie them properly
8. Pull up all ends when tightening the knot.  With some knots this will be only the standing end
and tag end; with other knots it might be three or four ends.
9. Knots are rarely as strong as the line.  Knot strength is often expressed in percent, such as the
percentage of the strength of the line at which the knot (weaker than the line) will break.
As an example, a knot testing 90 percent will break at nine pounds of tension in a line testing ten-pounds.

Knots to tie a fishing line to a hook or lure are the basic and used in all fising. The following is several of typesof knots.

Improved clinch knot
This is a variation of an older clinch knot.  The variation (a final tuck of the line back through a loop) makes this knot test 95 percent of the line strength. The secret of this knot is to make five turns of the tag end of the line around the standing end part before running the tag end back through the formed loop. Use for lines up to 20 pound test.

 
Palomar knot
This knot, over 95 percent in strength, takes more line to tie because it is doubled first. It is good for lines up to and over 20 pound test. Because it is run doubled through the lure or hook eye, knotted and then looped over the hook or lure, it may tangle easier. It is a favorite knot of many anglers.

 
Non-slip loop knot
This knot creates a fixed loop so that a hook can freely move.  It is best with larger lines where a tight knot such as the Improved Clinch can impede the hook/bait orlure movement. It is similar to tying the Improved Clinch Knot.

 
Blood knot
This knot requires five turns of line, with each tag end around the overlapped standing end of line.  This is easy to do by making one series of turns and tucking the tag end between the two lines and then repeating with the second line.  It is a good knot if the lines are not too dissimilar in diameters. It’s good for tying 15 pound test line to 20 pound test line; not good for tying 15 pound test line to 50 pound test line.

 
Surgeon's knot
This makes it easy to join two lines, but one line must be short, since you have to bring the one end through the formed overhand loop. As with other lines, use a lot of overlapping line so that you can pull on all four ends to properly pull tight.  Work with both lines together as you tie this, and make sure that both loops are the same size to assure a strong knot.

 
Surgeon's loop
This knot is similar to the Surgeon’s Knot for joining lines.  To make this,fold over the tag end of line and form the knot using both strands to make a double overhand knot. Pull up carefully on both the two ends and the loop.

 
Figure-eight loop
This loop knot is also easy to tie.  Fold over the tag end of line (leave lots of line for this) and then form a figure-eight bend with the two lines, ending by going through the first loop. As with the Surgeon’s Loop, pull tight on the loop and both tag ends.

Special knots

Arbor knot
You need to attach the line to your fishing reel, but this knot does not need to be strong. Run the line around the spool hub (arbor) and make an overhand knot around the standing line. Clip and pull tight.

 
In-line dropper
This allows you to make a loop in the middle of your line to attrch a hook or othre rig. Fold the line back over itself to make loop, and then twist the two overlapping line sections four or five times. Pull the loop through this center twist. Pull tight.

How to beat the heat while fishing

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For fishmen, dealing with the sun and hot temperatures is part of summer fishing. Like most things outdoors, one's comfort and safety in hot weather are directly related to planning and preparedness. It's important to take the time to get organized when heading out into hot weather to ensure you don't get dehydrated, sunburnt or succumb to heat stroke. Here are some tips to keep you cool during hot days on the water.

1.Protect Your Head
Keeping your head protected is important during hot, sunny conditions. Without a hat you're tempting fate and a case of sunstroke. A wide brim hat will protect your face, ears and neck from the sun's rays. Other options include ball caps, buffs and bandanas. These don't provide as much protection, but are better than nothing.

2.Protect Your Eyes With Sunglasses
Most sunglasses sold today will protect your eyes from harmful UV rays. For anglers, polarized lenses will cut down on the sun's glare on the water, letting you spot fish and underwater structure. Wrap-around options are extremely popular as they hug the face and do an excellent job blocking out the sun. When buying your shades, pick up a floating case and a lanyard to protect your investment from unwanted overboard losses.

3.Staying Hydrated
Perspiration is one way your body regulates its temperature. In hot and humid conditions, you need to frequently replenish liquids lost to sweat so you remain hydrated. If you don't take in enough fluids, you run the risk of getting sick with sunstroke.

Staying hydrated is simple: drink a lot of fluids and drink often. It's best to drink plenty of water and not just take a few sips now and then. I usually guzzle back 10 to 20 ounces about every 30 to 45 minutes (sometimes more) when fishing in hot conditions. I make it a habit to pack extra water so there's plenty for me and extra in case my fishing partner didn't bring enough.

Drinking before you feel thirsty is another rule of thumb to stay hydrated. When your body sends out a signal for thirst, you're already dehydrated. If you feel thirsty, drink plenty of water to replenish your fluid levels.

When it comes to drinks, it's important to stay away from caffeinated and alcoholic beverages. These will cause you to lose fluids as both are diuretics and will cause you to urinate frequently. If enjoying these kind of drinks make sure you have a few extra glasses of water to compensate for lost liquids. Also, note that when hydrated urine will be clear. When it's a dark yellow, you're dehydrated and need to drink lots of water.

Although water is my mainstay drink for hot weather, I also like to have a few sport drinks on hand for variety. These help to replenish salts, sugars and other minerals lost from excessive perspiration. You can save yourself money by buying the drink powder in bulk and mixing your own in waterbottles. Juices are also good to have on hand.

4. Lather on the Sunscreen — Often
Using sunscreen on a regular basis is critical to protecting your skin from UV rays. Not using sunscreen increases your chances of getting skin cancer or may result in other skin damage, like sunburns. Keep in mind that the sun's rays can reflect off the water's surface and cloudy conditions still call for sunscreen.
Adults should use a sunscreen with a minimum SPF 15 rating and children should use sunscreen with at least a 30 SPF rating. Ensure you apply sunscreen liberally at about 20 minutes before you're in the sun for maximum protection. Consider using sport sunscreens when fishing. These products are fairly waterproof and sweat proof, resulting in better protection. Sunscreen should also be reapplied as necessary. This is especially true if you've gotten wet or have been sweating a lot.

Also, carry a stick of lip balm with a SPF 15 rating and use it often. You may also want to consider a sun block stick, to cover your ears and nose.

5. Get the Right Clothing
Protecting your skin with proper clothing is important. Some sportswear fabric offers sun protection, with 15 and 30 SPF ratings being common. Often these clothes feature moisture-wicking and quick-drying features that will also help you keep cool. Look for vented cape backs in shirts for maximum ventilation.
Although shorts and short sleeve shirts are common in hot conditions, it's important to have long sleeve shirts and pants on hand. I use regularly wear convertible pants when fishing. If I feel my legs have got too much sun, I'll zip the pant legs back on for 30 minutes or so to give my skin a rest from the sun's rays. I do the same trick with a light-weight long-sleeve shirt to protect my arms.

If you're standing and fishing all day in sandals, it won't take long for your toes to get burnt if you're not prepared. Regularly apply a lot of sunscreen to your feet and don't be shy putting on some ultra-light socks or switching to shoes if your feet get too hot. Also don't neglect your hands. If you're landing and releasing fish all day, sunscreen can quickly wash off, so reapply often. Also consider sun gloves that are specifically designed to protect hands from UV rays, but allow you to do all things fishing related, like tie knots, cast and reel, and so on.

6. Take Cover
In extreme conditions, it's sometimes best to stay out of the sun entirely. Consider dividing up your outings with a mid-day break. The sun's rays are often the strongest between 10 a.m.-2 p.m., a perfect time for a shore lunch or a siesta in the shade. Of course, if you're boat has a top this is a great feature to stay in the shade. Purchasing a bimini top is an easy way to ensure you've got some sun protection on your fishing rig.

These are just a few suggestions on how to handle the heat this fishing season. The sun shouldn't stop you from enjoying great angling this season, but be wary of its rays and the affects of hot weather. Stay hydrated and protected from harmful UV rays, and you'll be ready for whatever the fish dish out.

Few tips for your first fishing adventures

First to fishing adventures are often overwhelmed by the choice of fishing tackle as they sift through catalogs, browse online, or gaze at the offerings in their local bait and tackle shop. There are some essentials to take along on every fishing outing and other items that will help make the trip more enjoyable…and perhaps more successful. The key in the beginning is; keep it simple.

Ask an experienced fisherman what the best bait or lures are to bring along. This will cut down on a lot of extras that you don’t need to carry.
Dress comfortably for the weather. If you are too cold or too hot, it takes some of the fun out of the enjoyment of fishing.

The first things to pack are safety and common sense. Accidents do happen, and being prepared makes the difference.

If you are fishing from a kayak, canoe, or a small boat –fish with a buddy. Even if you are fishing from a dock, bridge, or beach, tell someone where you are going to fish and an approximate time you will be back.

Here’s a list of what to bring along. Some items will vary depending on what kind of fish (species) and size of fish you are after.

Fishing Hooks  — for the type of fish you are targeting
Extra fishing line — tangles and break-offs do happen. Don’t lose a whole day to a lost line.
Bobbers  or floaters if you are fishing baits with that method
Snaps and swivels to keep fishing line from twisting
Sinkers or weights
Leaders (or leader line)
Needle nose pliers for hook removal. Hook removal tools are usually light weight and effective, but it’s good to also have pliers along in case you hook yourself
Stringer —  to hold the fish you catch
Ruler and scale – if you area has size limits, these are necessary. Small pocket tape measures work fine.
Sharp knife – a multi-tool knife is good, but may not be the best bet for cutting bait. Bring a bait knife and leave the fillet knife at home unless you plan to clean your catch where you fish.
A small flashlight if you are out before dawn or after dusk
First-aid kit — simple stuff, like band aids, insect bite relief, and a few aspirin
Insect repellent
Sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat

Use this checklist before you leave. There’s nothing worse than being in the middle of the lake and realizing you left some of your gear at home.

Drag instruction for fishing reels

About Drag
The drag system on reels allows line to come off the spool while fighting a fish. This will prevent the line from breaking if the fish makes a strong run. The drag lets the spool turn and release line until the fish slows down, without giving the fish slack line that might help it get off the hook. To work well, a drag must allow line to come off the spool smoothly and consistently while the reel is in gear.

Bait-Casting Reel Drag:
Bait-casting reels usually have a star drag that is controlled by a star-shaped fitting under the handle. It’s made up of different kinds of washers inside the reel that rub against each other as the spool turns while the reel is in gear. They can be very large and the drag system on bait-casting reels is usually smooth and consistent.
You can also control the drag on a bait-casting reel by using your thumb against the spool and putting the reel into free spool. Pressure of your thumb on the spool acts as the drag and controls the amount of pull that’s needed to take line.

Spinning Reel Drag:
Spinning reels come with either front or rear drag systems that are made up of alternating metal and fiber or plastic washers that work against each other. Front-drag reels have bigger washers and are smoother but are harder to adjust during the fight. Rear-drag reels are easy to adjust but have smaller washers, meaning they are not as smooth. Anglers need to adjust the drag when fighting a strong fish because as line comes off the spool the drag gets tighter as the amount of line on the spool gets smaller.

Spincast Reels Drag:
Spin-casting reels usually have a poor drag system because their construction makes it difficult to design a drag system that works well. The spool must turn inside the reel to allow line to come out, and the angle the line makes going around the edge of the spool and out the hole in the cover fights against a smooth drag. The drag usually consists of a small tab that works against notches in the side of the reel. The spool moves in jerks between notches and is not consistent.

How to Protect Your Fly Fishing Rod

Do you konw how to protect your fly fishing rod? The fly fishing rods need to be protected when not in use to ensure their long life and usefulness in the river. Some consumer spend in excess of thousands of dollars on a quality fly rod, while other spend just a few hundred. In eithre case, does it not make sense to protect your investment with a simple rod case or tube?

In most instances rod cases are generally forgotten about by the average fly angler until a serious need arises for one like an out of town trip. Worse yet, these fishing cases due to their long size and bulkiness get packed away in basements making them difficult to find when you need them. As a result, desperate anglers try and rig existing luggage to accommodate these rods, only to find that their gear arrived cracked, bend or broken at their intended destination.

In general rod cases and tubes come in a few different designs and styles. The first type is your basic long, hard-cased rod tube. These types of tubes are best suited for transporting your rod long distances such as on a plane or the back of a truck. The second type of rod case is a tube-cover with a tough fabric that forms a reel cover. These cases allow a broken-down rod to be slipped into the case and secured without the removal of the fly reel. The last type of rod case is the rod sock. Like the rod tube this type of case requires the reel to be removed before storing the rod. Unlike the other two cases this type of protective covering really does not do much in the way of protecting your rod. It simply covers the rod and keeps it dirt and debris free.

Standard Rod Tubes
The rod tube is a basic protective case for your fly rod that is generally intended for everyday use to and from the river. These cases have been designed specifically for long terms storage purposes like the long winter or for travel abroad.

These cases are specifically good for packing away rods for winter or for periods when do not think you will be able to get out on the water for a while. Giving your rod a quick cleaning and packing it away softly will have rod coming out of the tube looking like new in the spring.

Having a fly rod travel with you to a destination is never a safe venture especially when going by airplane. Conveyer belts, luggage slides and rough air conditions can severely damage your precious equipment so having a protective case to combat the rigors is a good idea. Rod tubes for travel should have padding at the tops and bottom and space eaters involved so that rods do not bang around inside the tube.

Another good idea is to have a locking mechanism attached to the top of the tube you are interested in so that you can place a pad-lock or similar device to keep unwanted intruders out. If you are looking into purchasing a rod tube then a good idea is to find one that is either made out of heavy duty PVC type plastic or, better yet, lightweight aluminum or some type of metal composite. These cases need to able to take serious abuse so choosing a tube that skimps on the materials used for the cases construction will only find you back in the stores in a few years searching for another. Additional features are listed below that make will set a quality rod tube apart from all others.   Rod Tube Features
Hard PVC or metal shell

Soft and padded internal compartment plus caps
Screw on cap with D rings for locking
Identification Tag
Adjustable shoulder strap and web handle

Rod/Reel Cases
Rod and reel combo cases are a great idea for the fly angler who likes to fish a few different times in a week or venture out to multiple stretches of river in one afternoon. These cases are designed in such a way that anglers can simply break down their rods at the ferrules and slide the ferrule ends down the rod tube to stow the rod away safely. This simplistic design saves anglers a tremendous amount of time by not having to attach reels and flies repeatedly.  Another key feature of these combo cases is that since they are meant to have rods broken down in half, they are smaller in length than your traditional rod tube.

This small size makes them great for small trips and tight spaces in the back of your car. If you are looking to purchase a rod, fly fishing reel, and case combo try and buy a case that has more than one rod well as reel holder. It is a great idea to have multiple rods rigged and waiting to go just see what the conditions are and choose the best set-up. For the best possible rod and reel combo case look for one that incorporates as many of the features listed below as possible.

Rod and Reel Combinations
Rugged 450 denier fabric cover over hard PVC shell
Soft and padded reel case section
Two zipper side pockets for additional storage of reels, spools, fly boxes
One mesh panel pocket
Adjustable shoulder strap and web handle
2 D-rings for attachment to back pack
Multiple wells for more than one rod storage
Heavy-duty metal zippers

Rod Socks
Rod socks are almost exactly what the name implies, just a sheath of fabric to place your fly rod into. The rod sock is normally used in conjunction with rod tubes to further protect rods from damage. A quality rod sock will have multiple compartments so that the angler can store each fly rod section by itself.
Placing all the rod pieces together in one large compartment would allow for the rod components to rub together either scratching or blemishing the rods finish. Additionally rod sock should incorporate some sort of a tie down system so that the rod sections in the different compartments will stay in place. These cases are great if used in conjunction with one of the other two varies of cases but should not be used alone as protection for you fly rod. The sock is simply to keep your precious rod dirt, dust and scratch free, nothing more.
Buying a quality fly rod is one of the biggest investments any angler will have in fly fishing. If you can justify spending your hard earned dollars on the rod that you have always wanted, take the time to protect it properly for years to come with a quality rod case.

Welcome to Goture fishing tackles online center.

How to choose a tackle box

When it comes to the tools we utilize to catch fish, the most important aspect when heading out on the water is organization. Having all of your lures, baits and terminal tackle in one easy-to-find location will enable you to become a more efficient and savvy angler, all the while leaving one less excuse for why the fish didn't bite.

Tackle boxes and bags come in every size and shape imaginable, leaving the fisherman with some bewildering choices when it comes to finding one which is right for them.Deciding on a tackle box is akin to buying a pair of pants — you want them to be the perfect "fit", with a bit of extra room for added growth.Follow these suggestions and discover the tackle storing system that is tailor-made for you.


Hard or Soft?

When it comes to choosing a tackle storage system, the angler has two options available — hard, plastic boxes or soft bags.
Hard tackle boxes have been on the scene since the dawn of modern day fishing, conjuring up childhood memories for many that enjoy the sport today. Although the basic design remains the same, improvements and minor refinements have been made to make the product even better in this competitive market. For those looking for a solid and sturdy design, tackle boxes certainly have the bases covered. The hard plastic and resin will resist cracking and rough handling nicely, making the toughness of this product hard to beat.

Most tackle boxes will have fold-out trays on the inside, allowing the user to utilize different compartments in order to store their lures and baits. Make sure these trays are classed as "worm proof" before purchasing, (the majority are), as your plastic baits will "melt" and fuse into one another without this technology. Some models have forgone the trays in place of plastic utility boxes — a neat concept that allows you to customize your lures into different groups. Both varieties work well, but utility boxes seem a better fit for ease and functionality in today's market.

Another interesting wrinkle that many of these boxes include are top-loading compartments, allowing the storage of larger items such as pork jars, spare reels, and tools. Time and effort is simplified greatly by accessing these items from the top, allowing improved simplicity for the angler. Keep an eye out for this significant feature to add value to your purchase.

One last thing to keep in mind is spinnerbait and jig racks. These plastic additions to the box allow easy and tangle-free storage of certain lures, keeping them at the fisherman's fingertips for easy pickings. Many of these lures are cumbersome in nature, yet these racks allow storage in a neat and tidy manner. (Not all boxes come standard with racks, so keep this in mind when perusing the catalog.)

Things to inspect when buying a tackle box would be strong, sturdy handles; secure latches; and roomy lure compartments that will allow the storage of "oversized" baits and tackle. A deep base that can hold a variety of miscellaneous bits and pieces is also a handy addition.

The one downside to tackle boxes is their weight. In comparison to bags, they can be quite heavy (depending on the model). This extra weight is often offset by the increased protection they offer your tackle and gear, leaving the final say up to the preference of the angler.

As with all tackle storage systems, purchasing a model that is larger than your present collection of lures is advisable.Remember, over time you will be adding more lures and baits to your ever-growing collection, so make sure that the model you choose can adapt to your future purchases.

Soft tackle bags have recently become popular, providing a new innovation in the storage system industry. Tackle bags are lightweight, waterproof shells that hold a variety of plastic utility boxes, which in turn, house your lures. Depending on the dimensions of the bag, utility boxes can number anywhere from two to six or more.


A great feature that really shines is the convenience that tackle bags offer. Take only the tackle "boxes" you need, while leaving the others at home. (If you're strictly fishing walleye for the day, no need to cart all of your bass and pike gear to the lake.) This can greatly alleviate unnecessary weight, while also simplifying the process of finding your baits quickly and effortlessly.

Another interesting "perk" that comes with a tackle bag are storage pockets. These can come in handy for holding blister packs of plastics, spare reels, fishing tools, or even the camera. I prefer a tackle bag that has a number of pockets in varying sizes, as, in my mind, you can never have enough storage compartments. (Nor enough tackle to fill them all!)

As in the case of the tackle boxes, make sure you buy a bag that is roomy enough for all of your gear. I've seen some bags that only hold two utility boxes — great for panfishing, but ineffective for most all round fishing situations. Bigger is definitely better when making your final decision.

Padded shoulder straps are a nice feature that will bring comfort when carting your gear to and from the boat. Make sure the straps and handles are strong and sturdy, with reinforced stitching to provide added toughness. Waterproof material is mandatory, as is sturdy fabric that will resist tears and punctures.

As with anything in life, you get what you paid for. Tackle boxes and bags both have their good points and bad, leaving the consumer the option to thoroughly investigate both varieties before rendering a decision. Whichever system you choose; make sure it is the right fit for you. A storage system is an angler's office when out on the water, and being the particular bunch that we are -- everything must be in perfect order when out in our watery domain.

Tackle Binders
Do you struggle or curse when it comes time to file your jigs, plastics, or spinnerbaits? Fret no longer, as tackle binders are here to save the day.
A tackle binder is basically a wrap (with Velcro lining or a zipper for closing) that contains binder rings and plastic inserts, specifically designed for the storage of various lures. Whether it is spinnerbaits or cranks, each lure fits snuggly and securely in individual bags, ensuring a tangle-free and easy-handling storage system.

A tackle binder is basically a wrap (with Velcro lining or a zipper for closing) that contains binder rings and plastic inserts, specifically designed for the storage of various lures. Whether it is spinnerbaits or cranks, each lure fits snuggly and securely in individual bags, ensuring a tangle-free and easy-handling storage system.

When it comes time to store plastics, binders are the way to go. Bags are roomy enough to fit large numbers of craws, lizards or worms in, and give you the freedom to refrain from digging through endless mounds of blister packs. Replacement bags are also available, making this system one of the most revolutionary when it comes to organizing tackle.

These binders will fit nicely inside your larger tackle box or bag, allowing the angler to keep all of the lures and baits together in one easy to use, hassle-free package.

I hope you've learned a little bit about choosing a fishing tackle storage system. Functionality is the key word when heading to the checkout counter, so make sure you cover all the bases in order to get the most from your purchase. Good fishing and happy tackle organizing!

Summer Bass with The 5 Best Baits

They pop and spit, they're fun to fish, and they get smashed by hungry bass. What's not to love about frog fishing? Read on for top 5 best frog baits for summer bass.

1. Booyah Poppin Pad Crasher Frog

With its body like a boat hull and easily collapsible exterior, I really can’t say enough good things about the Booyah Poppin Pad Crasher.  Work it side-to-side around mossy stumps and isolated wood cover for explosive results.  Surprisingly lightweight, the Poppin Pad Crasher empties itself of water with every swoop, keeping it afloat no matter how slow your retrieve.

2. Evolve Nervous Walker

http://www.goture.com/45mm-7-5g-trulinoyaly06-sharp-beak-single-hook-with-soft-tails-fishing-lure-3pcs-lot.html

Perfect for fishing docks, the Evolve Nervous Walker makes easy work out of an erratic walk-the-dog retrieve, enticing bass out of cover with its lifelike surface crawl.  The engineers at Evolve Baits spent a lot of time closely studying the behavior of freshwater frogs, and the Nervous Walker makes it apparent that their time was not wasted.  Whether you hop it around pads or glide it through open water, the Evolve Nervous Walker will load your boat with fish.

3. Zoom Horny Toad

The standard by which all other soft body toads are measured, the Zoom Horny Toad is one of the most productive frog baits on the market.  Slap it around moss and overhanging branches to stir up a feeding frenzy among opportunistic bass.  Depending on your retrieve speed, you can walk it across topwater or buzz it just under the surface to mimic a hungry amphibian sucking down insects.

4.Strike King KVD Sexy Frog

No list of frog baits is complete without the best-selling Strike King KVD Sexy Frog.  Built with Strike King’s premium soft plastic, the hollow-bodied KVD Sexy Frog collapses instantly when bit, exposing razor-sharp frog hooks for a deadly penetration.  Throw it shallow and watch as aggressive bass pin it against the bank for a violent takedown.

5. Spro Bronzeye Popper Frog

Just as deadly as the original Bronzeye 65, the Spro Bronzeye Popper Frog features an inwardly cupped mouth designed to scoop and spit water, chugging and popping as it walks.  Its powerful topwater splash is perfect for fishing thick scum and pollen lines.  Because the scum blocks the sun, bass congregate underneath, looking for any opportunity to snatch an easy meal.
If you need more different frog bass baits, welcome to Goture.com- fishing tackle online for sale!

The steps of use the uni-knot to snell a hook

The steps of use the uni-knot to snell a hook

Many kinds of fishing hooks on http://www.goture.com/fishing/fishing-accessories/fishinghooks.

Step 1
Thread 6 inches of line through the eye of the hook.

Step 2
Hold the line against the hook's shank and form a uni-knot circle.
Step 3
Make fie(5) to seven(7) turns through the loop and around the standing line and hook's shank.

Step 4
Tighten by pulling the standing line in one direction and the tag end in the other.

How to use the uni-knot to join two lines

The steps of using the uni-knot to join two lines
Step 1
Overlap about 12 inches of the ends of two lines. Form a Uni-Knot circle with the tag end of line "A".

Step 2
Wrap line "A" five (5) times to form a Uni-Knot around line "B".

Step 3
Snug the knot by gently pulling on both ends of line "A" with enough tension to close the wraps, but not so tight that it actually grips Line "B".

Step 4
Form a new Uni-Knot circle with the tag end of line "B" and wrap line "B" five (5) times to form a Uni-Knot around line "A". (Use only four turns for 60-, 80- or 100-pound test monofilament.)

Step 5
Gently pull line "B" with one hand and line "A" with the other to slide the two Uni-Knots together until they jame — then pull tight. Then tighten the wraps around the standing lines by firmly pulling the tag ends of each Uni-Knot.

Step 6
Snip the tag ends.
Before using the uni-knot to join two lines, you need to learn how to tie the Uni-Knot, the post of The steps of tie the Uni-Knot on http://goture-fishing.blogspot.com/2014/08/the-steps-of-tie-uni-knot.html.

Light Stick Is Important For Night Fishing

Many anglers like go to fishing at night, because some fishes like to hunt under the cover of darkness. And in night fishing, some usual fishing equipment is necessary, one fishing tackle is very important, it is fishing light stick.

Today, Goture recommend the Ocean Sun fishing light stick for you.

The light stick has two kinds of models, one is 15m 3.0*25mm, another is 30m 4.5*37mm.


 
Description of Ocean Sun fishing light stick

More than 72 hours lighting time (more 12 hours available), long and hight brightness, soft light without glare, can be saved long time.
With good material, light, small size( the volume is two-thirds of general product, reduce float head heavy, increased sensitivity.
When the temperature is below 30 degrees, the light stick was used, you must take it into regrigetator to save, and it can still be used on second night, the brightness is still the equivalent of 90% of ordinary luminous stick.
Outside the visual field intensity meters, saving time for 2 years (ordinary luminous stick 6 months).

Using showing

The steps of tie the improved clinch knot

The define of the improved clinch knot
The Improved Clinch is very easy to tie, which is the main reason it's so popular for connecting monofilament to terminal tackle. It's most effective on lines under 20-pound test.
Step 1
Pass the line through the eye of the hook, swivel or lure. Double back and make five turns around the standing line.

Step 2
Hloding the coils in place, thread the tag end of the first loop above the eye, then through the big loop.

Step 3
Hold the tag end and standing line while pulling up the coils. Make sure the coils are in a spiral — not overlapping each other. Slide against the eye.

Step 4
Clip the tag end.
You may be interested in the post "The steps of tie the two-turn clinch knot"

About go night fishing

If you're looking to extend your fishing time with fishing tackles and aren't afraid of the dark, working the night shift on your local lake can bring some eye-opening surprises. The fish can run thick while the crowds remain thin, leading you to some untapped angling possibilities and a new twist to the game of fishing.

The lake you choose will have a direct impact on your success at night and can also be a factor in your safety. Pick a lake that you are comfortable with and one you have fished in the past. Having a good knowledge of any given structure, as well as obstacles, is also well advised.

Make sure it is a body of water that routinely coughs up fish. If you can catch a bass at high noon on your favorite lake, you can certainly catch him at midnight.

High-pressured lakes are excellent nighttime spots. Although the influx of anglers may turn the fish off during the day, they will be more prone to actively feed once the sun goes down, giving you access to untapped angling possibilities.

Choose a lake that has close access points to the areas you intend to fish. Launch ramps that leave only a short run to the fish are best, especially for the ease and safety they provide.

Clear-water is preferred over dirty or stained, as this will increase the likelihood of fish locating your lure. Bass have excellent low-light vision, and extra bites can be had when working water that they can more easily see through.

Weather conditions can also play an important part in your decision-making. The most productive nights usually occur after a hot, sunny and calm day. The full moon period also sees an increase in fish activity and gives anglers a bit of an edge by increasing their own visibility.

Where to Fish

Fish will often lurk in typical "day spots" during the night, although, they may move up to shallower water. Weed and sand flats are great choices for bass, walleye, pike and muskie, especially if the vegetation has open areas and passages. Stay away from heavily vegetated spots, as these will often hold less fish while also snagging more lures. Depths will vary from lake to lake, but 10 feet or less is often a good starting point.

Rock points will often cough up walleye, muskie and pike, especially if they are close to deep water. Fish will move up here to feed at night, and will be more tempted if the area has a mixture of weeds, rock and sand.

Docks are a great location to find largemouth bass. Smaller fish are attracted to the lighted structures, ultimately bringing the larger predators in. Don't forget to work the channels surrounding docks, as this is a prime cruising lane for bass to feed in.

Rip-rap and rock shoals hold tremendous potential for smallmouth bass, as these areas are an excellent hangout for crawfish. Walleye and muskie will also key in on the hard stuff, especially when a bit of wood or weed is thrown into the mix.

Humps will generally hold all types of fish. Locate those with a shallow feeding shelf that borders deep water, and you may hit a gold mine.

Fishing Lures of the Night

No matter what specie you plan to target, there are a few simple rules for selecting baits. Offering the fish a silhouette at night is your best bet for getting a strike. Since the sky will be lighter than the water, the color black will be most visible, and is a nighttime standard when it comes to fishing.

Sound is also important at night, as fish use their inner ears and lateral line to detect motion and disturbances. Noisy topwaters, rattling crankbaits, and flipping jigs or worms with sound chambers will allow fish to key in on baits more easily.

Scent also comes into play, and all slow-moving baits (jigs, worms etc.) should get a healthy dose of a commercial scent product.  This will help fish detect baits, as well as hold on to them for longer periods of time.

Equipment for night fishing is fairly standard. Baitcast or heavy spinning gear will get the job done, as finesse and light-line tactics are not necessary. Sensitive rods work well at night, enabling an angler to feel the movement of their lure, as well as subtle strikes. Ensure that reels are smooth and drags set correctly, as darkness is not the environment you want for gear failure.

Mono or braid both work well, although many rely on fluorescent line for the characteristics it holds. When used in conjunction with a black light, fluorescent line will give off a bright glow, enabling an angler to watch for strikes or pickups, see where their lure is and better work a retrieve — an excellent option for the beginner or advanced night fisherman.

When fishing at night, weighing down the boat with excess rods and tackle is not necessary. Take three rod and reel combos and a tackle tray or two. This will simplify things and leave one less obstacle to trip over when moving in the boat at night.

Safety First

Fishing at night is a fun and enjoyable sport, but as in all aspects of angling, accidents can happen. A cold lake shrouded in darkness is one place you don't want accidents to occur.

Planning and foresight can go a long way. Religiously make a checklist before heading out, and always ensure that gear and safety equipment is in proper working order. The following list represents some good advice for minimizing the risks:

    Always let someone know where you are fishing and when you will be home. If possible, fish with a partner.
    Launch your boat as close as possible to the areas you intend to fish.
    Ensure that boat running lights are working, and keep them on at all times.
    Take a fully charged cell phone.
    Wear a lifejacket.
    Keep a search spotlight on board, as well as two flashlights and a headlamp.
    A landing net and long-nosed pliers should always be on deck.
    A GPS unit can help you find the launch in bad weather, or if you get disorientated. A compass can be invaluable if a GPS unit is not available.
    Whistle and flares work well for attracting attention.
    Orientate yourself with the water during daylight hours before venturing out at night.
    Stick close to shore until you feel comfortable and capable.
    Bring bug repellent and a first-aid kit.
    Check weather forecasts before heading out.

Fishing at night can be a great experience. It certainly adds a new element to angling and can put you on a ton of untapped fish. Give it a go this season and see all the action you've been missing!

The steps of tie the two-turn clinch knot

As the pre post "The steps of tie the Uni-Knot", the following we will share the steps of how to tie the two-turn clinch knot.

And what's two-turn clinch knot?

The Two-Turn Clinch has been around since the turn of the century. It's stronger than the Improved Clinch and almost as easy to tie.

Step 1

Pass the line through the eye of the hook, swivel or lure two times to form a small double loop.

Step 2

Finish the loop between your thumb and forefinger and make five (5) turns around the standing line. Insert the tag end through the double loop.

Step 3

Hold the tag end and standing line while pulling up the coils. Make sure the coils are in a spiral — not overlapping each other. Slide against the eye.

Step 4

Clip the tag end.

Welcome to fishing tackle online on Goture. There have many kinds of rods, reels, lures, hooks ans so on.

The steps of tie the Uni-Knot

What is the Uni-Knot

Reliable, strong and easy to tie,the Uni-Knot is an excellent knot for securing line to terminal tackle. It's also the foundation of the entire Uni-Knot system. Note that the Uni-Knot can be left as a loop or tightened down so it's snug to the hook eye (see Steps 4 and 5).

Step 1
Run at least 6 inches of line through the eye of the hook, swivel or lure, and fold to make two (2) parallel lines. Bring the tag end of the line back in a circle toward the hook or lure.

Step 2
Make six (6) turns with the tag end around the double line and through the circle.

Step 3
Hold the double line at the point where it passes through the eye and pull the tag end to snug up the turns.

Step 4
To create a loop connection: Adjust the loop size by sliding the knot up or down the standing line. Then pull the tag end with pliers to maximize tightness.

Step 5
To create a snug knot: Pull the standing line to slide the knot up against the eye. Then continue pulling until the knot is tight.

Step 6
Trim the tag end flush with the closest coil on the knot.

Many kinds of fishing lines on Goture.

Happy Crappie Fishing Day

Crappie is among the most popular sport fish in the United States. They are well-known by different names including sac-a-lait, white perch, paper-mouth and calico bass. Crappie is one of the most sought after to catch because of its great taste. Their white flesh is one of the most tasteful fresh water fish. Goture-fishing tackle online.

Let’s discuss basic facts. There are two different species of crappie, white and black crappie. Crappie are closely related to the family of sunfishes and black basses.

The best way to distinguish black from white crappie is to consider their dorsal fin spines. Black crappie usually has 7-8 spines and white crappie typically have 6 spines. Distinguishing the two species by its color is not a reliable method. Black crappie has uneven dark speckles and streaks on their sides. White crappies have lighter colors and have unique vertical bars which can be seen at their sides. It’s hard to distinguish the two species during the spawn, since both of them become darker in appearance.

Crappies are found in lakes and along river banks throughout the country, during their reproduction season, that is the spring season, it is also the best time to catch lots of them. Crappie fish are usually somewhat fertile as they reproduce fast in a specific period of time. Crappie populations are cyclical and unpredictable and are plenty in size. Crappie usually feeds from dusk to dawn and they like eating crustaceans, minnows, insects and small fish. They can reach their size from 12 to 18 inches long.

Ultralight spinning tackles from Goture are best used to caught with most kinds of crappies. You can use live bait for crappie from medium-size to min. Artificial lures of various kinds such as small spinners ranging from 1/32 to 1/8 ounce is recommended for use.

Crappie are tasteful and can be cooked a different ways. Bigger crappie is good for filleted while small crappie can be filleted or gutted and scaled. Crappie fish can be cook in hot oil and fry it for several minutes. It can also be baked, fried, or sautéed to experience the variety taste of it.

The best crappie fishing lure is the one that catches the most fish! Many fishermen find a crappie lure that works for them in one area and then stick with that lure every time. But crappie move around because they like to vary their diets – so you will want to vary your crappie lures. If you want to see the best crappie lures then you can see crappie fishing videos on many popular sites such as Youtube.


Crappie prefer live food and have been known to bypass lures that resemble dead food, so make sure that the crappie lure you use looks as much like a live minnow as possible. You may also want to keep the lure active – again so that it looks like a live minnow. Although if you are fishing in a river with a good current you may be able to let the water do the work.

Using a bright colored lure is also a good idea with crappie, as they have excellent color vision a crappie lure that catches their eye may be just the thing to interest them and make them bite. Chartreuse works well for crappies.

Crappy are also a smaller fish with a fragile mouth so you will want to use ¼ oz or smaller sizes of pan fishing lures. A popular lure especially for beginning anglers or children is the Fish N Spin. This lure is primarily a crappie lure and is also good for catching bluegill, but it has also caught a wide variety of fish. You do not need to use any special or fancy techniques with this lure, just throw it out there and reel it in nice and slow.

Fishing lures are more effective

As the fishign lures are sold in many kinds of shade and combination imaginable, so fishmen need some criterial for deciding which one to tie on. Comes chooseing lure color.Its priority in this selection process is indicative of its importance, or lack of it. The following are basic guidelines many pros use in choosing lure color.

The Rule of Thumb

The most fundamental rule is to fish brightly colored baits in dingy or muddy water and light, subtle colors in clear water. The logic here is that a bass' visibility is hampered by silt, and colors like chartreuse, yellow and orange are easier to see than bone, pumpkinseed and smoke. On the other hand, when water is clear and the fish can get an unobstructed look at the bait, it's best to go with softer, more natural colors.

For instance, when water clarity is poor (visibility a foot or less), many pros use spinnerbaits with chartreuse or yellow skirts or crankbaits in a "fire tiger" pattern — orange belly, chartreuse sides, dark green back. Conversely, in clear water, white or white/blue spinnerbaits are favorites, as are crankbaits in chrome, bone and various natural finishes (crawfish, shad, sunfish, etc.).

The same principle applies with soft plastics — worms, lizards, grubs and tubes. In dingy water, dense colors are the rule, and two-color worms with bright tails offer added visibility. Examples are grape, black or blue baits with chartreuse, red or orange tails.But in clear water, lighter, more translucent colors seem to work best. Favored colors here include pumpkinseed, motor oil, strawberry and smoke. Also, bits of metalflake molded into these see-through worms provide extra flash and attraction to bass in high-vis situations.

The jig-and-pig is a standard bait for flipping, pitching or casting. In clear water, preferred color combinations are a black jig/blue trailer (either a pork chunk or plastic crawfish), black/brown and pumpkin pepper/green; in stained water, black/yellow and black/chartreuse are perennial producers.

When to Make Adjustments

Besides water clarity, time of year and preferred forage should also be considered in choosing lure color. For instance, crawfish are a main menu item on many Southern lakes in the pre-spawn, and unless the water is muddy, a crawfish-pattern crankbait or a brown/brown jig-and-pig emulate this natural prey. In the post-spawn, many bass feed on small bluegills, and sunfish-colored lures are effective. When bass are schooling in summer or chasing shad in bays in the fall, a chrome or shad-colored lure is a logical choice.

Two particular fishing situations call for special color considerations: night fishing and topwater fishing. Most expert night fishermen use black or dark blue lures. The theory is that these colors provide a more distinct profile when silhouetted against the lighter background of the water's surface. Thus, a dark lure is easier for bass to see and strike accurately at night.

Most topwater specialists prefer dark-colored baits early and late in the day when visibility is poor, and light-colored baits during bright periods. They are quick to note, however, that a surface lure's action and noise are far more important in triggering strikes than its color.

In conclusion, there are no hard-and-fast rules in selecting lure colors, and confidence may be the most important factor in this process. Beginning bass anglers should follow the above guidelines and experiment with different colors and combinations to discover which ones work best on their home waters. Then they should stock their tackle boxes with just a few basic colors and forget about the dozens of others they don't have.

This is what the pros do. They carry only a few shades in worms, crankbaits, spinnerbaits, etc. They know each color works in a particular water clarity/forage situation, and when they encounter it, they can tie on the matching lure with assurance. This way they avoid confusion, and they can worry more about catching bass than fumbling through the tackle box searching for the magic color.
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